2021 Combined Japan Cup

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2021 Combined Japan Cup
LocationMorioka city, Iwate Prefecture
Dates18 – 19 June 2021
Champions
MenTomoa Narasaki
WomenAkiyo Noguchi

The 2021 Combined Japan Cup was held from 18 to 19 June 2021 in Morioka city, Iwate Prefecture. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). The athletes competed in combined format of two disciplines of bouldering and lead, simulating the 2024 Paris Olympics format. The winner for men was Tomoa Narasaki and for women was Akiyo Noguchi.[1][2]

Schedule

Men Women
18 June (Friday)
11:10 - 13:35 Bouldering Qualification 10:40 - 12:55 Bouldering Qualification
14:30 - 16:20 Lead Qualification 13:50 - 15:30 Lead Qualification
19 June (Saturday)
13:50 - 15:30 Bouldering Final 08:50 - 10:30 Bouldering Final
16:40 - 17:30 Lead Final 11:40 - 12:30 Lead Final

Competition format

It was held to simulate the 2024 Paris Olympics format. Eight competitors with the highest scores proceeded to the finals.

Disciplines Qualifications Finals Notes
Bouldering Four boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes. Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes. Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Lead A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes. A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes. Score was determined by the highest point/hold reached.

Scoring

Bouldering

BPP Top Zone For Tiebreaks
Attempt to Top Attempt to Zone
Qualification +25 points +5 points -0.1 point -0.01 point
Final +33 points +8 points
BP = BPP x 100 / BMP

Lead

LPP Hold +
Qualification +2.5 points +0.5 point
Final
LP = LPP x 100 / LMP

Men

Qualifications

Rank Name Bouldering Lead Total Points[3]
Top / Zone Attempts BPP BP Hold LPP LP
1 Tomoaki Takata 4T 4Z 22 18 97.80 98.98 34+ 85.50 87.69 186.68
2 Yuji Inoue 4T 4Z 12 9 98.80 100.00 31+ 78.00 80.00 180.00
3 Sota Amagasa 3T 4Z 10 14 80.00 80.97 32+ 80.50 82.56 163.53
4 Tomoa Narasaki 3T 3Z 3 3 74.70 75.60 34+ 85.50 87.69 163.29
5 Kokoro Fujii 3T 3Z 4 4 74.60 75.50 34+ 85.50 87.69 163.19
6 Rei Kawamata 3T 3Z 5 5 74.50 75.40 33+ 83.00 85.12 160.53
7 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T 3Z 10 10 74.00 74.89 33+ 83.00 85.12 160.02
8 Katsura Konishi 3T 3Z 9 9 74.01 74.90 30+ 75.50 77.43 152.34
9 Yuya Kitae 3T 3Z 9 7 74.03 74.92 30 75.00 76.92 151.85
10 Yuta Imaizumi 2T 3Z 5 11 55.00 55.66 32+ 80.50 82.56 138.23
11 Ao Yurikusa 1T 3Z 2 16 34.80 35.22 TOP 97.50 100.00 135.22
12 Ryo Omasa 2T 2Z 9 5 49.10 49.69 33+ 83.00 85.12 134.82
13 Rei Sugimoto 2T 2Z 5 5 49.50 50.10 30 75.00 76.92 127.02
14 Taisei Honma 1T 2Z 3 10 29.70 30.06 35+ 88.00 90.25 120.31
15 Keita Dohi 1T 3Z 4 17 34.60 35.02 33+ 83.00 85.12 120.14
16 Masahiro Higuchi 1T 2Z 7 13 29.30 29.65 35+ 88.00 90.25 119.91
17 Kento Yamaguchi 1T 2Z 4 10 29.50 29.85 32+ 80.50 82.56 112.42
18 Ryoei Nukui 1T 1Z 6 5 25.00 25.30 32 80.00 82.05 107.35
19 Meichi Narasaki 0T 2Z -- 6 10.00 10.12 33+ 83.00 85.12 95.24
20 Keita Watabe 1T 2Z 4 6 29.54 29.89 25 62.50 64.10 94.00
21 Shuta Tanaka 0T 1Z -- 5 5.00 5.06 32+ 80.50 82.56 87.62

Finals

Rank Name Bouldering Lead Total Points[4] Qual.
Rank
Top / Zone Attempts BPP BP Hold LPP LP
1st place, gold medalist(s) Tomoa Narasaki 2T 3Z 4 4 73.60 100.00 33+ 83.00 100.00 200.00 4
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Kokoro Fujii 2T 3Z 6 6 73.40 99.72 33+ 83.00 100.00 199.72 5
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Yoshiyuki Ogata 1T 2Z 1 3 40.87 55.53 33+ 83.00 100.00 155.53 7
4 Tomoaki Takata 1T 2Z 2 3 40.77 55.39 33 82.50 99.39 154.79 1
5 Sota Amagasa 1T 3Z 1 5 49.00 66.57 29+ 73.00 87.95 154.52 3
6 Katsura Konishi 1T 2Z 1 2 40.88 55.54 31+ 78.00 93.97 149.51 8
7 Yuji Inoue 1T 2Z 2 3 40.77 55.39 30+ 75.50 90.96 146.35 2
8 Rei Kawamata 1T 2Z 1 2 40.88 55.54 27+ 68.00 81.92 137.47 6

Women

Qualifications

Rank Name Bouldering Lead Total Points[5]
Top / Zone Attempts BPP BP Hold LPP LP
1 Miho Nonaka 4T 4Z 4 4 99.60 100.00 40+ 100.50 83.75 183.75
2 Hana Koike 4T 4Z 11 11 98.90 99.29 40+ 100.50 83.75 183.04
3 Futaba Ito 4T 4Z 6 6 99.40 99.79 39 97.50 81.25 181.04
4 Akiyo Noguchi 3T 3Z 3 3 74.70 75.00 TOP 120.00 100.00 175.00
5 Ryu Nakagawa 3T 3Z 6 5 74.40 74.69 39 97.50 81.25 155.94
6 Natsuki Tanii 2T 4Z 4 10 60.00 60.24 44+ 110.50 92.08 152.32
7 Saari Watanabe 3T 4Z 4 6 80.00 80.32 31+ 78.00 65.00 145.32
8 Mei Kotake 2T 3Z 2 6 54.74 54.96 43+ 108.00 90.00 144.96
9 Miku Ishii 3T 3Z 7 6 74.24 74.53 27 67.50 56.25 130.78
10 Mao Nakamura 3T 3Z 7 7 74.23 74.52 24+ 60.50 50.41 124.94
11 Mashiro Kuzu 2T 3Z 6 9 54.40 54.61 32+ 80.50 67.08 121.70
12 Nanako Kura 2T 3Z 2 3 54.77 54.99 28 70.00 58.33 113.32
13 Mio Nukui 2T 3Z 3 5 54.70 54.92 27+ 68.00 56.66 111.58
14 Nao Mori 1T 1Z 1 1 24.89 24.99 35+ 88.00 73.33 98.32
14 Mishika Ishii 1T 1Z 1 1 24.89 24.99 35+ 88.00 73.33 98.32
16 Risa Ota 0T 1Z -- 5 5.00 5.02 39+ 98.00 81.66 86.68
17 Tomona Takao 0T 0Z -- -- 0.00 0.00 39+ 98.00 81.66 81.66
18 Moe Takiguchi 0T 0Z -- -- 0.00 0.00 34 85.00 70.83 70.83
19 Ryo Nakajima 0T 3Z -- 11 15.00 15.06 23+ 58.00 48.33 63.39

Finals

Rank Name Bouldering Lead Total Points[6] Qual.
Rank
Top / Zone Attempts BPP BP Hold LPP LP
1st place, gold medalist(s) Akiyo Noguchi 2T 3Z 4 5 73.60 100.00 36+ 90.50 100.00 200.00 4
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Miho Nonaka 2T 3Z 6 7 73.40 99.72 31+ 78.00 86.18 185.91 1
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Saari Watanabe 1T 1Z 1 1 33.00 44.83 20 50.00 55.24 100.08 7
4 Natsuki Tanii 0T 1Z -- 2 8.00 10.87 31+ 78.00 86.18 97.05 6
5 Ryu Nakagawa 0T 2Z -- 10 15.90 21.60 25+ 63.00 69.61 91.21 5
6 Futaba Ito 0T 2Z -- 3 15.97 21.69 23 57.50 63.53 85.23 3
7 Hana Koike 0T 3Z -- 5 24.00 32.60 17+ 43.00 47.51 80.12 2
8 Mei Kotake 0T 0Z -- -- 0.00 0.00 23+ 58.00 64.08 64.08 8

References